Parabolic Leaf Springs

Starring The Rover Ladies

In The Drink Anyone who has been in the Series Rover Community for any length of time has heard of parabolic springs. As of right now, there are two North American Suppliers, Rocky Mountain Parabolic Suspension, the type supplied by Wise Owl out of Vancouver, B.C., and another type of parabolic spring with a helper leaf supplied by T.I. Console, out of the Netherlands.

I finally decided to go with the Rocky Mountain Parabolic Suspension.
Ray Wood, of Wise Owl, did not simply copy the existing Santana parabolic springs, he developed his own. He has put them through rigorous off road testing in the Rocky Mountains. I just could not get past the fact that the helper spring on other sets could get hung up. I have seen this happen on different makes of vehicles. That is not to say that it could happen on T.I.Console's springs, but without the helper spring, it definitely will not. The rubber bumper on the helper spring seems to be a weak point to me as well. Also, if you are going to have more articulation, wouldn't you need a bigger bushing? These were all considerations of mine.
This is not to discredit T.I.Console's springs. They certainly have a sterling reputation, and they were first on the scene. They are endorsed by several major players in the Series Rover market. This page is to show the process of installing parabolic springs, and the choice of manufacturer is a part of that process. Therefore, I intend to maintain links to both suppliers.

The measurements with my worn out, boggy OEM springs were:
Ground to front bumper 18.5 inches
Ground to rear crossmember 18.5 inches
Center of rear hub to fender lip 17 inches
Center of front hub to fender lip 18.5 inches.

The best side view pic I have prior to the parabolic springs

At the very least I expected improved crossover, approach and departure angles as well as greater fording ability due to the increased lift. I ordered the 2 leaf front (73588) and the 3 leaf rears (73590). The three leaf rear springs were not in stock at the time of ordering, but Ray Wood at Wise Owl had them in my hot hands in 15 days flat. Now that's service folks!
Rear Spring I put the rears on first. It took me about four hours as I groped for the best method with the jackstands and floorjack I had at my disposal. I had two jack stands, a floorjack and a bottle jack. An extra jackstand would have been helpful, as would taller jackstands
The High School Camaro Look After the rear springs were on, I took a test drive. The Rover looked like a high school kid's Camaro. I couldn't feel much change in ride quality yet, as the old springs were still on the front. The amount of lift, however, was dramatic. The OEM shocks were almost at full extension.

Level Again The next morning, I put on the front springs. In the interest of comparison, I have put the photos close together.

Driving Out The Bolts On both the front and rear, I cut the U-bolts with an angle grinder. Expect to replace these. They are always rusted, and it's a lost cause to try to get the nuts off. Might as well cut the bolts. Wise Owl supplies new U-bolts that are beefier than the Rover unit. You will have to drill out the shackle plate a bit to fit them.
Out Damned SPOT! Also, on the front, I encountered the dreaded SPOT (Stupid Previous Owner Trick). The left front spring was apparently a low quality aftermarket item, with a hex head bolt through the center. The spring would not release from the axle pad. After considerable verbal abuse and persuasion with a sledge hammer, the spring relented, but had one more trick up it's sleeve. The hex head on the bolt broke off, and was firmly rusted in the axle pad. There was nothing to do but drill and curse. After the appropriate amount of cursing, the hex head succumbed to the power of my drill. The springs were then fitted. I found that with the supports I had available, I had to remove the wheels, and cut U-bolts on both sides at once. I could then wiggle the axle as I fit the springs. I supported the axle as I removed springs with the floor jack.
U-Bolts Also, on the front, I had to trim off the U-bolts. Another job for the angle grinder. I torqued the U-bolts while the axles were in the air, so there would be no resistance due to the weight of the Rover being on them. I left the spring bolts relatively loose and drove down some corrugated roads to settle the springs. I then torqued them to specs.

The Rover With Parabolics Of course, what everyone wants to know, does it ride any better? I will let the Rover Ladies decide that. From my point of view, I am interested in crossover, approach and departure angles, and increased fording depths. I got that in spades. The Rover now sits level. Rocky Mountain's springs are not sided. The Rover even sits level with my 235 pound butt inside it. Am I satisfied? Damned right I am! The new measurements are:

Ground to front bumper 20 inches
Ground to rear crossmember 21.5 inches
Center of rear hub to fender lip 20.5 inches
Center of front hub to fender lip 20.5 inches.
That's an average of three and a half inches of lift over the old springs.

Rover Lady #1 Rover Lady #1 says "There is a distinctive difference. With the old springs every bump was transmitted through the lumbar and thoracic spine. While I tolerated the ride for the love of my husband, I now want to drive the Rover myself! With the Rocky Mountain Parabolic Suspension, the ride is comfortable, quiet, yet still quite Roveresque. It's not my Buick, but it's quite a bit smoother than Jim's Jeep Cherokee. And ladies, don't try to get in without pants!"

Rover Lady #2 Rover Lady #2 says "I really like Daddy's Rover. It's not a Jeep. I want to drive it. We went to the river and saw a big boat and a tug boat. I was glad when he finished this job so I can go riding again. Don't try to follow us, you won't make it!"

Rocky Mountain Suspension Link

Further Testing

Articulation It took me a while to find some terrain that was rough enough to really articulate the springs. Most of the stuff around here is rolling hills or cliffs into the bayou. In this pic you can see the twist of the axles pretty clearly. I have the original shock absorbers installed, the original rubber bushings, and nothing is rubbing anywhere. I still have not found the limits of these springs! You can click the thumbnails below for full size pictures of the articulation.


Left Rear Right Rear Left Front Left Front, Close-up Rear Left Rear Front, Close-up

Loaded DownThis is why I wanted the three leaf rear springs. I use my Rover as a work truck. That is not firewood, that is a bed full of solid rock. The radial tires were bulging, and the rear sat about 2 inches lower than normal. The ride loaded down was superb. The tough part was loading the stone and unloading it. Incidentally, this load, and others like it were brought out from deep in the woods. The springs took it in stride. Two years later, I have had absolutely no change in ride height. The Rover still sits level, and rides superb. I continue to overload her with things like a full bed of sod, or rocks, and the springs continue to perform flawlessly. They truly are one of the best things I have done for my Rover.

Maggie with two leaf rear springs and a hardtop On my next Rover, a year later, I installed the Rocky Mountain Parabolic Springs with two leaf rears. This Rover, Maggie, was built for my wife. The two leaf rears do yield a softer ride, and have less load capacity. Maggie has a remarkably smooth ride, confident cornering, and equal articulating ability. I was expecting a bit more lean while cornering with Maggie, due to her hardtop and two leaf rear springs. While it is true that the three leaf rear springs would give increased stability, Maggie is as stable as any other truck while cornering. You can click her picture to go to Maggie's story.

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