Maggie's Motor

Cleaning the Greasy Lump

Greasy Lump Click to see what it first looked like!

If there is one thing I detest, it's working on a dirty, greasy engine. To each his own, but I like my engines to be clean, painted, and simple to work on. I don't mind getting dirty, but why bother when you don't have to? I also like the least amount of wires and hoses as possible. I hate to see aluminum parts painted, as well as shoddy, insubstantial workmanship. Unless it's cubic inches, less is more in an engine compartment.
To clean up the engine I used a combination of engine cleaners, oven cleaners, putty knives and wire brushes. I removed all of the ancillary components, and headed them towards the parts washer. I also checked all the freeze plugs for integrity, and changed the aft freeze plug as a matter of course.
Rotor Position

Before you pull the distributor, take note of the rotor position, then the gear position after you remove it. I mark the crank pulley as well. As long as the engine does not turn, you should be able to simply drop the distributor back in and not have to retime the ignition.
Ready to Paint

I installed old spark plugs, covered all openings with duct tape, and covered the valve train with aluminum foil. To get good paint adhesion, it is imperative that the engine be clean. A final wipe down with a good degreaser is the key to a long lasting paint job.
Since I am not going to rebuild the engine, I sprayed it in the frame. Any overspray will be taken care of when I brush paint the frame. I use Plasti-Cote's Alpine Green, #225. It is the closest spray can engine color available.
Painted

After spraying, I waited a day or so, then began reassembly of the ancillaries.

Finished!

I got in the habit of color coding things when I was racing. It sure makes it easier when you are working with someone. That is why my oil items are red. "Honey, get out and see if there is a leak around the red can on the bottom......" or "You put the oil in the red cap, not the black." I used new gaskets, and the Permatex #2 sealant. I like to use an O-ring at the base of the distributor, instead of the fragile cork circle. I also place O-rings under the valve cover holding hardware, and at the base of the breather cap.

Advance forward 1 Year to see what happens.

Distributor Alert!
Please remember that you can screw things up if you do not disassemble carefully and take notes.
If you decide to remove your engine's distributor you must notate the direction the rotor is pointing.
Number the wires with tape. Do not allow the crankshaft to turn while it is out.
Reassemble it in the same position. Your engine should then start.
If it does not, you are likely 180 degrees off on the ignition timing.
Consult your manual at that time.
A minute of note taking can prevent an afternoon of troubleshooting.
For more of this legal CYA stuff, click here.

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