Clearing the Rat's Nest

I begin by gathering supplies. At this point, I just need ignition and starter circuits, I will do the lights and wipers later. I believe in getting quality switches. Since they are the only component of a wiring system with moving parts, they tend to be what wears out first. I depend on the Echlin switches I buy at NAPA. They are worth the extra money. First, I mount a Ford solenoid on the firewall. A solenoid is nothing but an electrically controled switch. It has a plunger inside that moves by electromagnetism to bridge the gap between the large cable terminals. The Ford solenoid is by far the most simple and reliable.
I laid in my battery cables, and the starter cable next. The positive battery cable is the red one, in the picture the black one is the cable to the starter. I also bolted my negative battery cable to the frame, and a large ground strap from the frame to the engine. From the battery side of the solenoid, I hook a 16 gauge fusible link through the bulkhead to the ignition switch. The fusible link is the orange wire with the eye terminal. Then a wire runs from a switched terminal of the ignition switch to the fuse box and starter button. I use an Echlin universal ignition switch with a marine starter button. I look for switches with screws and nuts to hold my wires in place.
I like my fuse box inside, protected behind the dash. It also came from NAPA. I prefer the old style glass tube fuses. They are easiest to find replacements for, or jury rig if you have to. I am a believer in simple switches.Toggle switches fill that bill. I use 20 amp 125 VAC toggle switches I get from the hardware store. Again screw on terminals, plus nifty little rubber boots to keep the grit out. I use a single pole, double throw for the headlight high and low beams. For the running lights, I use another toggle, a single pole single throw. It also illuminates the gauges. The third toggle could send power to the wipers if I decide to stick with the single motor system. If I go with the independent Lucas wiper motors, I will use the third toggle for a work light in back. The speedometer had the little green oil light lense rattling loose inside it. The speedometer also had the black sealant around the bezel creeping across inside of the glass. I would need to remove the glass to fix it. There's 33892 miles on the odometer. Do you believe it? You can click the picture to see the speedo being rebuilt.
Shipfitter's disease began to set in. I decided while I had the gauges out, I may as well fill the extra previous owner mystery holes across the top and bottom of the dash. I dimpled the holes, and roughed them up. Then I used some JB Weld, spreading it on and sanding it like body filler. I think it will be a little tougher than Bondo. Next thing you know, I was painting it.

Click the picture to see the reverse of the dash,
and the minimum wiring for starting and running.

Click here to compare with Beula's wiring.

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